A place - mystery – the plateau of Ustyurt is situated between the Mangyshlyk peninsula and the Cora Bagaza Gol Gulf in the West, the Aral Sea and the Amu Darya delta in the East. This huge lofty plain has an area of about 200,000 square kilometers. But although the highest point of the plateau does not exceed 350meters, however, Ustyurt looks like sharply outlined object in the surrounding countryside, thanks to steep slopes - escarpment, that rise like steep walls to a height of 200-300meters. Escarpments cover the whole territory of Ustyurt with a broken line, emphasizing boldly its geographical boundaries.
The nature of the plateau is quite distinctive and unique. Such "space" landscapes like these can not be found anywhere else. Within a few days a traveler sees all around him only a flat horizon, as smooth as a table surface. And only occasionally the plain is furrowed by small round depressions, which are recognizable by a change in vegetation than by sight. The origin of the soil and vegetation on Ustyurt plateau shows that the plain is considered to be desert, partly rocky, because of Sarmatian limestones, partly clayish because of the suspension and loams which form the surface. Groundwater and desert weathering have an enormous influence into shaping the modern topography. Groundwater used to come out to the surface as springs and to form the famous chinks, and as a rule, contribute the slipping down of huge boulders and capturing more and more new territory from plateau.
But not only natural beauty attracts intrepid travelers to come here. Ustyurt is surprising and offensively scantily place, although for centuries this plateau was considered to be the crossroad of civilizations. Although nowadays the plateau is practically deserted, in ancient times people used it very intensively, and its history remembers and cherishes the traces of the Scythians, the Mongols, and even earlier nations.
The main attractions of the Ustyurt plateau are archaeological sites of antiquity. More than sixty Neolithic parkings are found on the plain. In the Middle Ages through the Ustyurt numerous caravan routes held the way, such as the road of Khorezm Shahs, connecting Khiva with downstream of Volga and Emba. It was the namely caravan route where the ancient city of Sharh-i-Wazir, a caravanserai of Beleuli and also a fortress of Allan located.
Aktau (Kazakh. Aқtau - "white mountain") - a city in south-western Kazakhstan, the regional center of Mangistau region (formerly called Mangyshlakskaya). From 1961 to 1963 the village. Aktau, Aktau. From 1963 to 13 September 1991 [3] the city was called Shevchenko, in honor of the Ukrainian poet Taras Shevchenko, who was in the middle of the XIX century in exile in Kazakhstan. Is an industrial city. The appearance of the city was the result of the adoption of the Soviet leadership in the twentieth century, the decision to create a nuclear shield of the country with the participation of the Ministry of Medium Machine Building and running the then Minister Slavskogo EP was a unique complex that includes extraction of uranium ore, its processing and enrichment location. Network of enterprises of this complex provides the basic production chemicals (nitrogen fertilizer and sulfuric acid plant), thermal power generation, water (CHP BN-350). Has built the infrastructure of the city, providing a decent living of people in the arid desert. After the collapse of the Union of Aktau, basically, was the center of the development of oil and gas deposits, as of old, still open in the 20th century, and the new: Zhetybai, Kalamkas, Karajanbas Atambayev-Sarytyube, Oymasha, Komsomolsk, North Buzachi Karakuduk, and Tolkyn Arman.
Bozzhira - Land escarpment Ustyurt plateau, where Mother Nature has given full freedom to your imagination, created the ethereal landscape in white. This place is so far unknown and inaccessible to tourists.
Partly bozzhirinskaya valley is surrounded on three sides by the natural amphitheater of quirks. Here, all white - canyons, peaks, mountains, towers, mountains, castles, mountains, yurts. Bozzhirinskie relict mountains like chameleons, change their appearance as they crawl. Bizarre outliers as silent guards peer into the misty distance, keeping the rest of the majestic symbol of Mangistau - giant stone yurts. Its sole owner - lonely wind, plaintive singing songs boundless prairie skies. Sometimes it is an unpleasant feature of the local beauties. Wind can blow up suddenly and with such force that the tent weighs down to the ground.
Hallmark of Bozzhiry are two limestone peaks, known for its shape fangs. Their height from the ground up to 200 meters. Few people know the path may lead the traveler to the narrow observation deck, which offers an unforgettable view of miraculous Valley castles. Incommensurate with the natural forces of the human imagination exposed here the most mysterious creatures of the geological history of the Earth - spherical concretions of sandstone. Destroyed, concretions reveal the traces of marine life - various fossilized shells, age uotorye has a hundred million years. Bozzhira - it's not just a fad Ustyurt relief of cliffs. Near neighbors huge litter Karashek hitting his boundlessly flat as table salt-whitish expanse. In the heart of the litter in the hot swollen like a venous network crystallized salt. Nature Bozzhiry fragile. Unbearably hot sun dried up the place, depriving her of any kind has been life-giving water. Only for a short spring valley covered with pale green carpet scarce desert blades of grass. Rare Haloxylon pleasing tourists with its barely noticeable greens. It is very hot and dry in summer. At the presence of the unseen wildlife show few signs of mouflon and gazelles.
SHOPAN-ATA necropolis on motorcycle tour kazakhstan motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
Question origin Mangistau Underground mosque still remains poorly understood. Probably the basis of the appearance of these structures are natural caves and underground cell-kelyuety for spiritual meditation first Sufi preachers.
The complex and multi-chamber underground rooms Shopan Ata mosque carved in the rock ledge shallow dry riverbed. The premises are located in a semicircle, repeating outlines ledge. The oldest part of the complex consisted of a series of underground and surface areas with deep niches. Here are the graves Shopan-ata and his daughter, as well as the main hall for funeral prayers with wooden pole, farmed out through skylights in the ceiling. Next door to this is a small complex with underground mosque mikhrab niche in which is the entrance to a long corridor. All existing facilities, which are originally Sufi monastery, were eventually turned into the final resting place of pupils and followers of the teachings Shopan-ata.
Time of occurrence of the underground complex-Ata mosque Shopan not yet been established. Cruciform layout principles of the premises of the monument allow to draw analogies with the underground mosque Shakpak-Ata, dated by archaeologists at 14-15.
Necropolis Shopan-ata formed over 600 years. By the number of burials he is considered the largest in the Aral-Caspian region. Heyday architecture gravestones structures reaches 19 - early 20 centuries. Local craftsmen, masons, preserving ancient traditions, embodied in stone his vision of the world and their graceful fantasy. Traditional form of gravestones at Shopan-ata is koytas, kulpytasy and saganatam. Kulpytasy time undergoes a change of form and ornament: from primitive steles with a generic sign up decorative monuments with rich carving and polychrome. Individual structures of small architectural forms are simply unique.
FYI underground mosque and cemetery Shopan-ata specified time and tradition. On the way to the eternal rest of the great Kazakh St. Becket-Ata pilgrim shall worship the ashes of its spiritual predecessor and mentor - Shopan-ata. Near Shopan-ata rests his daughter - the patroness of women's health. Enjoys great respect old mulberry, according to legend, which sprouted a staff of Ahmad Yasavi Hoxha. From the mosque narrow path leads pilgrims to the tomb of Bayan -test Shopan-ata, where his cries for help will be heard after the triple sacred circle round. Visit Necropolis completes the holy well of healing water. Requests for the health and welfare of the collective fixed ordinance of sacrifice - the eating of the meat of the sacrificial lamb and drink tea. Shopan-ata accepts any wanderer, regardless of his religion and nationality.
BEKET-ATA necropolis on motorcycle tour kazakhstan motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
According to legend, Becket Myrzagululy born in 1750 near the village of Kulsary Atyrau region. Early stage of his life is marked by a just and virtuous batyra.
According to legend, Becket-Ata received a spiritual blessing from Elder Shopan-ata, who appeared to him in a dream. After graduating from madrasas in Khiva, in the forty years in the rank to become a Sufi pir (teacher, mentor). At its earthly path Becket-Ata was a lot of roads, while the newly arrived in Mangistau. He healed people, taught children to read, when solving disputes showed wisdom, leads both parties to an agreement. In his sermons Becket-Ata instructed believers to live in truth, be fair and do good. Becket-Ata lived for 63 years. They built four mosques: the first Kulsary - it is called Ak-Mosque, the second in the chalk cliffs, 20 kilometers from the village Beyneu, the third - in Bayshatyr on Ustyurt and fourth underground mosque carved in the array Cretaceous rocky promontory in the tract Oglandy, where he found his last refuge.
Mosque Becket-Ata in Oglandy most crowded place Ustiurt. To pay homage to the holy elder attracts pilgrims not only from all over Kazakhstan, but also the near and far abroad. On the edge of the plateau for pilgrims built a large complex of charming. However, the underground mosque is not the only attraction of this area Ustjurt cliff. Near the mosque wedges salty spring. His bed of reeds and tamarisk bushes. Here constantly come to the watering mouflon, which local Kazakhs called Pamir argali. Perhaps the spring Becket-Ata - the only unique symbiosis of peaceful coexistence of man and wildlife. It so happened that the holiness of the place spread to animals living nearby. Argali are forbidden to shoot for no legal restrictions. And it works! Animals fearlessly climb to the upper pastures and without fear graze near the guest complex.
But that's not all. Neighborhoods underground mosque also unusual in its landscape. If you drive here from the bottom point, the traveler open to nelenivyh unusual kinds of wind erosion have created all sorts of relict clay-limestone formations and exposed portions of layers with globular concretions. These layers are high on the hillside Ustjurt. Blown concretions roll like balls on clay slopes, creating an unusual accumulation and clutter. These stone balls relatively fragile and easily prone to blowing process. You can find even a mushroom field: wind ruined dense brown crust nodules on the surface level of occurrence to thin light legs, but retained "hat." A couple of white mushrooms in Mangistau!
TUZBAYYR canyon on motorcycle tour kazakhstan motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
At this point, chink Ustyurt steeply cascading clay-limestone and chalk steps, at the bottom of which lies a vast salt marsh, called in these parts litter
From afar, it attracts the eye only two mesas, buttes, adjacent to the main array plateau. Just driving up to them maloprimetnoy road, before the eyes of the traveler a panorama of unimaginable violence of the natural elements - water and wind. But be careful in its attempt to get close to the shore of the litter - the approaches to it are broken by steep chalky wall place in the 100 m tall. Plumbs cliffs indented with numerous gullies and deep channel, forming endless rows of the most bizarre columns. At the very bottom of the escarpment have huge natural poluarka created by wind erosion. However, to get close to her is very difficult. Only the most experienced drivers can drive here on the edge of wetland litter.
During periods of heavy rainfall or snowmelt litter filled with water, turning into a huge salt mirror, which reflects the sky and Cretaceous colonnade. Under the sun in the lake evaporated salt. Worth the wind to drive the shallows some twig as it accumulates in a few days with salt crystals. The lake bottom hard, because formed pyatisantimetrovym salt crust, walk barefoot on a superb and memorable massage for feet.
At the base of a small elevation located Kyzylbas guard Tuzbaira - natural sphinx, proudly looking on impregnable bastions Ustyurt. If you climb on Usturtsky Chink on the bandwagon graders, then barely perceptible old road will take you on a magnificent panoramic point. Before your eyes open the whole archipelago outlier mountains, ridges and steep cliffs with deep lagoons ghostly primeval ocean, the memory of which is stored bleached salt shore tuzbairskogo litter, but occasionally there are fossil shark teeth.
SHERKALA mountain on motorcycle motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
At this point, chink Ustyurt steeply cascading clay-limestone and chalk steps, at the bottom of which lies a vast salt marsh, called in these parts litter
A legendary mountain Sherkala is a natural symbol of Mangistau region. From a certain point inspection, it looks like a giant yurt, set mythical giants nomads in the folds of the terrain Akmish.
Mountain Sherkala (absolute mark 308 m) - the big outlier unusual shapes arising during the formation of mountain valleys prikaratauskih resulting elevation of the land from the ocean depths. As a result of the powerful earthquake on the ocean floor site of modern Mangyshlak peninsula was ripped open for more than 130 km fold older rocks. Tremendous power wrenched, mangled and put on racks thick layer of several kilometers. Karatausky fold lifted part of the marine sediments and dissected their numerous cracks.
After this event, even tens of millions of years of continued accumulation of oceanic sediments. In the Pliocene epoch (about 3 million. Years ago), there is a rise of land with a general slope to the west side. Receding waters vast Sarmatian Sea giant waves eroded areas of soft rock, creating chalk Cuesta canyons and gorges, hollows and sandy tracts, quaint mountain buttes. Wind and rain streams have completed majestic creation of nature. So there Sherkala mountain. This is one of its legends. Another legend about Sherkala states that once defended her valiant knights from hordes of enemies. They fought like tigers. Last defenders fled into the mountains underground passages inside the mountain and stayed in them all. Thus, the name of this stronghold of heroism and independence - Sherkala or City Tigers. At the base of the mountain, and on one of its benches are the remains of the fortified settlements of 11-12 centuries.
For the brave and experienced possible ascent to the summit of the mountain. You will need some mountaineering equipment and insurance, in order to overcome a very steep gully height of about 15 m. The bottom of the hill in place upsurge in the Middle Ages was also inhabited. Evidence of this are the pottery shards, broken brick and half washed out niches carved into the soft sandstone. On the wall of one of the niches carved images of the human hand, as if like a talisman that holds the peace and security of the big trade caravan of camels. Perhaps this is the only known graphic evidence of the existence in the Mangistau region caravan trade posts.
TORYSH or 'BALLS VALLEY' on motorcycle motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
According to one local legend, on the ground Mangistau came swarms of enemies, cover the land like locusts. Locals put forth their hands to heaven in prayer for help were heard. Heavens opened torrential streams, thunder and lightning. In an instant all the enemies turned into stones. So there were at Mangistau endless fields and ridges of unusual rock formations - globular concretions
Their size reaches 3 - 4 m in diameter. The nodules occur in the valleys between sand beds and ledges Tau Ridge North and South Aktau. Time of origin - 180 - 120 mln. Years ago, geological era - the Mesozoic period - Lower Cretaceous. Concretion - from the Latin word concretio - accretion, thickening. These concretions round shape formed in unconsolidated sedimentary layers with liquid filler content under the influence of electro-magnetic fields. The centers of the concretions can be magnetized grains of minerals, shells, teeth and bones of fish, plant residues. However, geologists no clear opinion about the process, who made these mysterious formations.
Tau mountains along naked over a dozen layers with nodules. Outcrops nodules stretch on both sides of Karatau skladui over hundreds of kilometers, giving the uniqueness of the local landscape. Where the formation is destroyed in an upright position - long ridges formed varied in size stones. Where is the reservoir collapsed horizontally - concretions occur fields, forming a bizarre clutter balls, eggs, mushrooms, cylinders, dolls and animals. This field is available in the locality quirks Torysh. Wind and rain, frost and heat split, hulled, coated mesh cracks these bizarre geological formations. This park rocks! Sharp eyes may fall here fossilized remnants of the former oceanic life - the core of bivalves, snails and ammonites. Early in the morning through the field of globular concretions overlook the takyr Torysh, stepped mountain ridge and Kulaat West Tau, bluish haze veiled mystery.
BLUE BAY on motorcycle motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
Small sea cove crescent shaped formed Convergent canyon mouths and large Tulku sai Uzynkudyk. description
Rocky ledges podstupayut here almost to the edge of the sea mirror. Collapses limestone blocks covered with embossed cranky limitless powers of the sea and wind. Unusually picturesque view of the place where the fresh sea breeze blows on shore long rows of foamy waves, as if turning over white feathers fabulous birds on the background of celestial blue. In storms rays of the setting sun dyed gold spray of waves about coastal stones developing.
In the early 20th century, it housed a fishing band under the name Tulku that in Kazakh means "fox place." On the south side of the bay on a rocky ledge of the remains of a small ramparts of the medieval era. On the northern portion of the plateau are the remains of the road mnogokaleynoy left wheels of numerous carts in the soft limestone. Save the information that carts drove along the coast fish for sale in Fort-Shevchenko.
Thirty years ago, many residents of Aktau dreamed of visiting, or relax on the small beach of white sand, hidden in the coastal rocky plateau gully. In those days, for their stories about "Blue Bay" were both fabulous legends. Wild beach, water-color, mysterious cliffs with caves, "thunderbolt", spearfishing ... everything was fabulous and even illusory. And today, you will not see any pointer in this place. However, this did not prevent the bay from mass visits wanting to soak up the sea sand. And the result is always the same - piles of garbage. The status of this territory is not quite clear. Then travel to the bay free, then it is closed barrier private individuals involved here melon growing. Unfortunately, this modern realities of our way of life and thinking. But "Blue Bay" is still famous for its blue water and the beach, as one of the priority development of beach tourism.
SHAKPAK -ATA mosque on motorcycle motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
Underground mosque - a rare phenomenon in the history of Asian Sufism. These spiritual abode there as a place of solitude and meditation, and, over time, the habitat of the Sufi communities. Mosque Shakpak-Ata in rock arose in the 14th century. and linked to the activities of Saint Shah Mardan.
In 2008, the first attempts were made by previous archaeological research Shakpak-Ata mosque in order to determine the history of the construction of the monument and the time of its occurrence. Excavation method was investigated cone construction blade at the base of the rocky ledge and cleared one of the burial niches and investigated three burial. Study of construction sediments revealed that the mosque is cut down to a few tricks with changing the original. On the basis of the collection of fragments of pottery found that the final layout of the monument was made in 15 in., And the beginning of the creation of the first underground rooms, probably refers to the 14th century. Well established that in the investigated burial niche in narrow rocky graves according to Muslim rites were buried both adults and children.
The modern layout of the mosque can be defined as the construction of cross-dome type. The corners of the hall marked by four massive three-quarter columns with capitals of the four original types. The walls and the entrance portal arch covered with Sufi poetry, family seals and drawings. In rocky niches are numerous burial murids - students and followers of the Holy. According to legend, the name Shakpak-Ata - the nickname of the saint given to him for the fact that in the battle with the enemies of his arms flying sparks panic on the enemy. According to another version, Shah Mardan got his nickname for his ability to strike the nail on the fire hit the nail.
Mosque Shakpak-ata only in the Aral-Caspian region monument whose walls are covered with inscriptions and drawings. Inscriptions made in Arabic, Turks-Chagatai and Persian languages, svidetelstuyut that the mosque is a holy place and Sufi monastery. Most of the text is visitors' character. Here we have the mark of visitors Xacitarxan (former name of Astrakhan), Kazan, Azerbaijan, Khorezm, Bukhara and Andidzhana. Earliest date of visits, which is found in the inscriptions refers to the 1707-08 biennium. Visitors often indicate their race - Arabadji, heat, pelvis, Turkmen-aday. On the walls of the mosque and burial niches are images of mounted warriors and archers, horses, cheetahs, lotus flowers and the open palm, which has a different semantic interpretation, such as hand of Fatima.
Mosque Shakpak-Ata is the object of pilgrimage for local Kazakhs.
SULTAN EPE undeground necropolis on motorcycle tour motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
Sultan Epe only coastal canyon which nature endowed with the ability to please the eye suddenly traveler green palette of colors among the rocky steppe monochrome Tupkaraganskiy Peninsula.
The slopes of the canyon are covered with groves tree vegetation, where neighbors hawthorn, mulberry, willow and dzhida. In the impenetrable thickets quiet murmurs freshwater fontanelle, feeding glades with nettles, mugs and fragrant mint. Hawthorn trees in spring dress in white dresses, and give reddish autumn bunches of healthful berries. In riparian thickets hide foxes and wild cats. At night the neighborhood is announced shrill cry of jackals.
This oasis since ancient times attracted people. Here, everything breathes history. Judging from the remains of the many parking lots, side of the canyon were inhabited since the late Stone Age. In 8-9 centuries. here comes a small fortified settlement and fortress, guarded the important rise in the plateau by Sartaskogo Gulf. Most of the local population canyon known underground mosque and the tomb of a Sufi Sultan Epe, is the patron saint of fishermen and travelers. According to legend the mosque was built boy named Heyrulla somewhere in the 16th c., Which appeared in a dream and told the old man, that he built a mosque in his honor. At the word the boy fears that he can not cope with his request because of the small age, the elder said: "Will you hand to touch the stones and pronounce my name - Sultan Epe - and they will be installed on your desire."
Archaeological studies of the mosque showed that this dungeon of ancient legends. Probably originally underground and surface facilities were Sufi monastery, where he lived the holy hermits, possibly starting with the 11th century. Tomb of Sultan Epe very respected among the pilgrims. It is said that his spirit helps heal the disease of the head. On giving, Sultan Epe is the patron saint of fishermen, young people and travelers. It is believed that the water of the sacred well, carved into the rock near the mosque, not only the most delicious in Mangistau, but also healing. Away from the mosque erected hospitable house for pilgrims and travelers.
ZHYGYLGAN landslide on motorcycle tour motorbike jeep 4x4 tour
Zhygylgan - huge geologic landslide resulting from wetting the clay-sand cushion on which rests a limestone formation.
It is very likely that this area Tupkaraganskiy "armor" could move as a result of powerful aftershocks. Heavy plate own weight forced a soft cloth and threw it into the sea, and she turned into a fantasy Spine failure. Destroying calcareous shell, nature has given us a rare piece of past life on earth.
It is believed that the limestones and Ustiurt Mangishlak formed by sedimentary rocks of marine origin. But zhygylgansky failure discovered fossilized mud layer formed ancient pond or shallow. Il was so dense and pliable that retained the footprints of animals, visit this place about 10-15 million years ago. In paleontology well known skeletal remains of three-toed horses ancestors (hipparions) and saber-toothed cats (Machairodus), but few have seen the traces of these animals.
Zhygylgan gave people a rare opportunity to contemplate the extraordinary spectacle - fragments of plates with imprints on the surface of the chains of fossilized footprints of large and small cats and deeply bogged down in the mud of hooves with two "fingers" behind the small horses, the size of a modern donkey. But this attraction Zhygylgana not end there. There is a small salt lake with local name Kuzdakary, the density of water which allows to keep afloat the human body.
The failure was the natural place of refuge of people in ancient times. Archaeologists are known in the chaos of three dilapidated stone fortress of 14-15 centuries. and the mass of rock paintings. With his fame Zhygylgan remains a place far from the known and the mysterious. They say that spirits live here.
KARYNZHARYK depression
Trench Karynzharyk stretched in the meridional direction by more than 70 km at the base Ustjurt escarpment. Her bottom covers the longest in Mangistau Kenderli litter. Lower Elevation litter - 66 m below sea level is at its southern tip.
Perhaps this point is the most attractive part of the basin. Zest kenderlinskogo marsh - five outlier mountains rising more than 150 m in the midst of white-salted silence. Three of them are close to each other, because of what the local Kazakhs call these mountains "Three batyrs" or "three brothers." The bottom of the litter is always wet and covered in salt crust, which swells the veins in the sun infinite cracks. During wet seasons Etosha is covered with a thin layer of water and then outliers as impregnable island, towering above the mirrored surface.
Of course, first impressions of Karynzharyk the brightest and most memorable. When you first get here, you lose all sense of reality. As if you find yourself in another time dimension, earth or earth. So primitive and savage looks this place. One of the German traveler, being here, said: "Another moment and will be a dinosaur!".
The most unforgettable show opens with a high and steep Chinkov Ustyurt plateau where you would like hang over kenderlinskim litter, mentally hovering among the "brave men" Karynzharyk. Amazingly, gory- "batyrs" despite its monumentality, always different - different in illumination across the sky that spread over them, on water and the salt mirror, on which they rest, and mood ... No, it would seem, gorgeous photos made here will not give your and only your, sensations and emotions. And this is the best memories of Karynzharyk!
On the basis of the depression Karynzharyk in 1993 was based Usturtsky natural reserve.
On this day, we will go along the edge of the peninsula Mangistau where dominant will see boundless Caspian Sea and we stand on the edge of the cliff at the very point of the peninsula. Next we visit most amazing place on Caspian the Jigalgan that in Kazakh "Fallen Earth" where you can see apocalyptic picture Earthed collapse. Our great journey is about to finish; full of unforgettable feelings we are going back to the most beautiful city of Caspian Sea – Aktau. We will celebrate our successful tour in local bar, where you will be given souvenirs. And after, let the party begin!
